The halls of American power aren’t exactly Parisian runways, but costumes are still important in the world of political theater. Politicians’ fashion statements impact voters’ perceptions, the national discourse and, as this year proved, our headlines.
2023 has been particularly rich in stylish statements and clothing-related controversies, from Polo Bear sweaters and scandalous designer goods to immaculately hemmed trousers and a man who refused to wear trousers at all.
As we fold 2023 away like a winter sweater — remember, knits should never be hung — let’s look back at some of the standout fashion moments of this year: the best-dressed politicians, the headline-grabbing controversies and the small details that made certain outfits unforgettable.
The King of Casual
Raphael Warnock
Democratic Sen. Raphael Warnock easily takes this year’s award for the best casual outfit. Earlier this month, he arrived in Atlanta wearing a pink checked shirt, a burgundy quilted vest and a Polo Bear sweater from Ralph Lauren’s Morehouse collection — fitting, as the senator is a Morehouse alum. The Polo Bear is a beloved icon in Ralph Lauren’s collection. As the story goes, the designer Ralph Lauren was given a Polo-clad Steiff bear for his birthday, and he was so smitten by the accessory that he started stocking the bears in his stores. When the stuffed animals proved popular, he started to put Polo-clad bears on his clothes. Since 1991, the Polo Bear has shown up on everything from caps to coffee mugs, but it’s most known for adorning sweaters while wearing various outfits of its own, from a suede jacket to a pinstripe suit. There’s even a rumor of a “Never Ending Bear” sweater, where a Polo Bear wears a sweater with a Polo Bear wearing a sweater with a Polo Bear, ad infinitum. The best thing about the knits is that you’re guaranteed to have at least one stylish outfit on — the bear’s, that is. But in the senator’s case, he had two.
The World President of Pants
Joe Biden
There must be a global shortage of tailors. When President Joe Biden showed up at the NATO Summit this year, he was the only male politician with a properly hemmed pair of pants. In fact, he might have the best pants in global politics. His trousers always hang straight; you never see any rippling along the back of his thigh, which would suggest an overly long back rise (tailoring terminology for the measurement stretching from the crotch seam to the waistband). His trousers are also always hemmed so that the legs just graze the top of his shoes. Compared to other men in politics — who walk around with excess fabric puddling around their ankles, fabric catching on their calves and ripples destroying what should be a clean line from the waistband to the hem — it’s a refreshing sight. Perhaps Biden can recommend his tailor to other politicians.
The Lifetime Achievement for Most Tasteful Dresser
Mitt Romney
Throughout his time in politics, Utah Republican Sen. Mitt Romney has been one of Washington’s most tasteful dressers. His outfits rarely inspire comments — well, except that time he wore mom jeans — but that’s the point. Romney prefers conservative dark worsted suits in moderate and flattering proportions. His jacket collar hugs his neck; the jacket ends halfway from his collar to the floor. The lapels are never too wide or skinny. In a town that has shifted to tan dress shoes and questionable dress sneakers, Romney has held steadfast to sensible, dark leather oxfords and derbies. He’s also one of the few men in politics who knows how to dress down his tailoring. Romney occasionally wears a navy sport coat with classic cut jeans, a casual checked shirt and no tie, avoiding the sartorial mullet seen on his colleagues, who wear grey suit jackets with blue jeans, white dress shirts and silk neckwear — all business up top, cowboy down bottom. But Romney is not afraid to have fun, either. On National Hot Dog Day, he wore a cheeky tie and a hot dog baseball cap.
The Insta-Fashionista
Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez
Instagram is the main social media platform for fashion, and it’s dominated by influential brands, media giants and high-profile influencers. But even in this crowded field, the best fashion-related Instagram post of 2023 was made by Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez. Shortly after returning from her diplomatic tour of Latin America this summer, she posted a series of Instagram storiesbreaking down her thought process behind what she decided to pack. “Dress is a form of communication,” she wrote. “Whether one likes it or not, the way one dresses sends many messages at once.” Her post was a great insight into the communicative power of clothing, helping to dispel the idea that fashion is just frivolity. It’s no surprise that it came from one of the most stylish people in Washington who has been particularly adept at social media. This past year, AOC sported a beautifully cut white suit to see Chilean President Gabriel Boric, a black scarf blouse for her meeting with Chilean Minister Camila Vallejo and a chic black midi dress with a mock neck and side slits for her appearance on Late Night with Seth Meyers. “I chose white, which to me is a color of hope and healing,” she said of her white suit. “Despite the challenges, I have hope for both Chile and the US-Chile relationship to move forward in truth and healing.”
The Blingiest Wrist in New York
Eric Adams
In the last few years, perhaps because of the slow disappearance of neckties, men have adopted bracelets as the new accessory. Decorative bracelets have been spotted on the wrists of British Prime Minister Rishi Sunak, Donald Trump adviser Rudy Giulianiand former NBC anchor Brian Williams. Still, none beat New York Mayor Eric Adams, who was photographed earlier this year wearing two bracelets — one that says “Hustle” and another that says “Flow.” Could these be an homage to the 2005 American drama Hustle & Flow, whose theme song, “It’s Hard Out Here for a Pimp,” won the Academy Award for Best Original Song? I don’t know, but either way, I love that Adams wore his Hustle bracelet to the Wailing Wall in August — certainly a first in politics.
The Seersuckeriest Southern Gentlewoman
SHELLEY Moore Capito
In the 1990s, Republican Sen. Trent Lott of Mississippi started a tradition where good-humored senators would designate a warm Thursday every June to wear seersucker, that blue-and-striped fabric strongly associated with the South. The tradition continues to this day, with staff and members of the House joining in the fun. The award for this year’s best seersucker outfit goes to Republican West Virginia Sen. Shelley Moore Capito (front row, second from the left), who sported a beautifully tailored seersucker suit with jetted pockets, a white shirt and a pearl necklace.
The Tie Breaker
Gavin Newsom
California Gov. Gavin Newsom is apparently the only politician who knows how to tie a tie with a dimple. (It takes practice: Insert your finger just under the knot as you’re tightening it.) As Alan Flusser noted in his book Dressing the Man, the cynosure of a classic tailored outfit is the V-shaped area formed by the dress shirt, the tie and the jacket’s front edge. This area leads the viewer’s eye upward toward the face. A dimple adds to this effect by creating some visual interest, allowing the tie’s material to express itself through those curves. Newsom goes a step farther by arching his neckwear up — a particularly good move that gives the accessory some dimensionality. If you’re trying to accessorize your way to Newsom’s level, buy ties with higher-quality interlinings. Despite the site’s lackluster appearance, Sam Hober makes bespoke ties with unrivaled quality, even when pitted against luxury names such as Hermes. Other good tie-makers include Drake’s, EG Cappelli, Shibumi, Bigi and Ben Silver. For something more affordable, but still well made, check out Chipp Neckwear.
The Shorts That Broke the Senate
John Fetterman
Clothing is pretty trivial in the grand scheme of politics — until it isn’t. In September of this year, with a looming government shutdown, massive United Auto Workers strike and war waging in Ukraine, American media spent over a week talking about the change in the Senate’s dress code, which allowed non-suited members to enter the Congressional chamber. The change was widely seen as an accommodation for Democratic Sen. John Fetterman, who had been moving through the halls of power in Carhartt hoodies, airy basketball shorts and padded Hoka sneakers. With the change, Fetterman was even able to preside over the Senate in his shorts. Thankfully, order was restored when the Senate changed back to its old rule — taking the focus off clothing and putting it back on legislation, where it should be — and Fetterman suited up. Still, his shorts will remain 2023’s most memorable fashion moment.
The MAGA ‘It Girl’
George Santos
The best fashion-related scandal of the year, and perhaps the decade, is expelled Republican Rep. George Santos of New York allegedly using campaign money to fund his shopping trips at Hermes and Sephora. In a recent interview with Showtime comedian Ziwe, the self-described conservative “It Girl” said that he doesn’t wear anything from Hermes except their fragrance and a metal bracelet, which he claims was a gift from his husband. (This shopping bag from Hermes looks pretty big for a 100ml fragrance and a bracelet, though.) Santos is no stranger to luxury, as he stalked the halls of power this year in Ferragamo shoes and a Cartier Santos watch. It has been reported that he’s made six figures through his Cameos already — more than he would have earned during the same period in politics — so we look forward to seeing what new lavish looks he debuts with such riches.